A dawn departure from Thame
	
	
				 
				
					
					Passing Samde (behind and across the Bhote Kosi) and Pare (at bottom and this side of the Bhote Kosi)
	
	
				 
				
					
					The trail traverses the flanks of the Kwangde massif, mostly contouring at about 3,600m
	
	
				 
				
					
					The trail leads through forest, with intermittent views across to Ama Dablam and then Namche Bazaar
	
	
				 
				
					
					At a tea stop, with Khumila, the Everest Group and Ama Dablam on the sky line
	
	
				 
				
					
					As we progressed Tamserku and Kusum Kanguru also came back in to view
	
	
				 
				
					
					A wider and wider Khumbu aspect unfolds - now spanning Khumbila to Tamserku, with Namche Bazaar in the foreground
	
	
				 
				
					
					Namche Bazaar, Syangboche airstrip, the Everest Group and Ama Dablam
	
	
				 
				
					
					Khumbila to Kusum Kanguru, with Namche Bazaar in the foreground
	
	
				 
				
					
					As we progressed eastward, we started to also swing south and the terrain steepened as Kwangde came into view
	
	
				 
				
					
					Approaching the steepest, coldest part of the route that skirts icy cliffs underneath Kwangde
	
	
				 
				
					
					Approaching the steepest, coldest part of the route that skirts icy cliffs underneath Kwangde
	
	
				 
				
					
					The trail crosses several frozen waterfalls, demanding extra care
	
	
				 
				
					
					The trail crosses several frozen waterfalls, demanding extra care
	
	
				 
				
					
					Chhongbi, our 23 year old guide for the Thame to Kongde section, enjoys a sunny spot. At this time none of us could know that he would summit Chomolungma/Everest (centre skyline) in 5 months time
	
	
				 
				
					
					Looking up to the 'business end' of the route. It goes left and then up steeply on a series of icy stone steps cut from the cliff face, protected by fixed steel cables
	
	
				 
				
					
					Climbing a stone staircase
	
	
				 
				
					
					Looking back down the stone stair case
	
	
				 
				
					
					Taking a breather before proceeding on up the icy rock route
	
	
				 
				
					
					There are two routes heading left here. The lower older one skirts the bottom of the picture. The newer one that we took climbs diagonally to the left skyline
	
	
				 
				
					
					At the crux of the route - a rope protected frozen waterfall that cuts across the trail, with a yawning 200 metre drop on the right. Crampons were essential here
	
	
				 
				
					
					At the crux of the route - a rope protected frozen waterfall that cuts across the trail, with a yawning 200 metre drop on the right. Crampons were essential here
	
	
				 
				
					
					Beyond the frozen waterfall the route continued around and up, eventually leaving the cliffs behind
	
	
				 
				
					
					Above the cliffs is a surprisingly expansive plateau. Kongde is just beyond the bare yellowish patch beneath Kusum Kanguru, right of centre